Author Topic: Xantia ball joints  (Read 3666 times)

Offline DocBrown

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Xantia ball joints
« on: November 08, 2010, 10:36:50 AM »
Hi everyone,
The Xantia has been performing well since I replaced the engine back in July this year. Carried out an oil and filter change yesterday and while the car was in the air I carried out a quick check of wheels, tyres, bearings, joints etc. Unfortunately I found the passenger front lower ball-joint had worn enough to allow 3mm of movement. This is annoying and beggars belief as I only replaced the ball joints 7,572  miles previously with branded parts from an alternative major car parts supplier with a 'European feel'  ;)
The car's only done 172,572 miles which is 7,572 miles and 5 months since rebuild. The car spends most of the time on motorways, speed bumps are not tackled quickly and it's not been kerbed so all I can put it down to is duff parts or (as I suspect) the ball joint left the factory without grease. This isn't the first time I've encountered major components that have been signed off and shipped out missing parts or without grease or incorrectly hardened as often found on cheap wheel bearing sets. Hopefully since the part hasn't been on long it will come out fairly easily with a windy gun. I don't like using long extension bars on this component since even if you leave the trackrod end connected, putting the 200 to 300 pounds force on to the hub via the ball joint will ruin the hub bearing/outer CV joint. Far better to either remove entire hub and clamp it in a big vice OR use an air impact wrench which tends to shock it loose without actually forcing the hub into an extreme angle.
So now got to go out and buy a new ball joint - maybe a pair just in case the drivers side ball joint starts wearing prematurely.

Doc




Offline neo

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2010, 06:32:46 PM »
The gsf karma fairy has bitten you on the butt for using an 'alternative supplier'. Shame on you and lesson learned!

Offline DocBrown

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2010, 05:18:05 PM »
I think you're right....   :-[

Offline donny brook

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2010, 01:46:22 PM »
e.c.p. have a newish store right alongside my nearest gsf store. the cheeky neds even have a sign facing which says 'including german swedish and french'. a while ago i went into the carpark area in front to check tyre pressures and then couldnt get out again due to flow plates. eventually i jammed these down with sum of there securing nuts which were alredy removed. i asked them why their was no warning sine but heard nothing typical i suppose

whats this dark side stuff? makes them sound important, but there not
« Last Edit: March 12, 2011, 11:19:37 AM by donny brook »
cool rhymes with fool. oh, and tool as well.

Offline DocBrown

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2010, 03:49:50 PM »
The forum blanks out the official name of a competitor. The Dark Side or ''Impish Servants Of The Goated One'' is what I'd call them since my replacement steering rack was supplied minus any rack grease. Just glad I checked it before fitting it to the car as this is also a long and awkward job.

I've got a new balljoint from GSF and going to fit it this weekend. Hope it lasts longer than the competitors part...which I'm sure it will.

Doc

Offline donny brook

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 11:36:17 AM »
whats a 'compelady lumpor' then?
cool rhymes with fool. oh, and tool as well.

Offline DocBrown

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2010, 12:06:43 PM »
I didn't actually type it but think the forum makes 'adjustments' to certain words and terminology.

Offline DocBrown

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2010, 01:30:00 PM »
The duff ball-joint is now replaced. Quite a straightforward job with an impact windy gun and a compressor. Still took three 'sessions' of the gun to finally get it moving though! This is despite the fact that it was previously only fitted 9,000 miles/five months ago! (torqued up to 185 Ib ft)

I recommend using a heavy duty impact gun as the hammering action doesn't put the hub bearing and outer constant velocity joint under extreme angles or load. Really can't recommend using a breaker bar and scaffold pole to remove these ball-joints as this will force the wheel hub over to an extreme angle that WILL damage the hub bearings and outer constant-velocity joint - even if the drive shaft is free to slide after the hub nut is removed. The only safe way is to use a big air-wrench that's capable of applying at least 400 Ib ft force or higher normally as a hammering action. This is how Citroen and Peugeot do it.  It is possible to remove hub and put it in a big engineering vice but you've really got to make sure the vice is attached to something solid - like the planet as the initial torque to remove the old joint will be a lot higher than the 185 Ib ft that it was originally torqued up to. I have used this method and I still bent a five foot thick-walled steel tube extension pole. Be warned.

DONT use the clumsy and damage prone hammer method to split a taper joint. This method may work on old classic cars and trucks that were built like oil-rigs but many modern makes of car now use aluminium suspension arms and even hub carriers. The lower arm of a Xantia is a forged steel item and incredibly strong - as is the hub carrier but the shock loads can damage the ABS sensor. Use a proper ball-joint splitter and grease up the fork inners to prevent the rubber balljoint cover from tearing.
As long as one is careful, you only have to release the driveshaft hub nut and BOTH anti-roll bar droplinks to enable the lower arm to be pushed down and the hub gently moved over thus enabling the balljoint removal socket to be fitted once the arm is separated from the ball joint taper.

The reason I say release both anti-roll bar droplinks is so the suspension arm can be pushed downwards. If you leave one link attached then it will try and 'fight' the movement of the free (opposite) side as that is what anti-roll bars are designed to do in operation - just makes it more awkward. Only the releasing of the top joint of the droplink is needed. The bottom of the droplink is often the toughest to shift due to all the road crud thrown up at the nut and exposed threads.

Doc


Offline donny brook

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2010, 12:02:32 PM »
I didn't actually type it but think the forum makes 'adjustments' to certain words and terminology.


it must the 't1t' in compet1tor, then. yank-grade ridiculous and it actually sounds worse. thats a good rite up about replacement.
cool rhymes with fool. oh, and tool as well.

Offline neo

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2010, 12:21:46 PM »
tit has now been played with

Offline donny brook

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Re: Xantia ball joints
« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2010, 04:46:16 PM »
tit has now been played with
what, just the one?
cool rhymes with fool. oh, and tool as well.