Author Topic: Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2  (Read 1587 times)

Offline Burnerman

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« on: April 13, 2006, 08:55:05 PM »
Yes it is possible but you need a long pinch bar to depress the wishbone far enough to allow the ball joint pin to come clear.  Once this is done the drive shaft can be levered clear from the gearbox for the repair to go ahead.  The inner driveshaft joint has to be removed first if I recall correctly and this involves releasing the crimped end of the aluminium can which takes a bit of care and patience.  The easiest way is to by an exchange driveshaft which does save loads of time and hassle.

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Offline KEB1

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2006, 03:49:09 PM »
Hello Burnerman,

Many thanks for your reply, I was begining to get a bit discouraged until I got your response.
This is the family's fifth Citroen (2CV, Dyane, GS & CX) but it is the first time I have had to do anything major to the ZX in two years of ownership.
However, suitably encouraged by your reply, I am pleased to say that the shaft is now on the bench.
After a bit of head scratching, I have also discovered that the aftermarket inner gaiter I bought does not include the circlip, O ring, spring and plastic thrust plate that the genuine part does.
Luckily, the local motor factor has agreed to exchange it for an aftermarket
gaiter that does included these parts. Talk about traps for the unwary !
I am reliably informed that the dealers prefer to take out the wishbone pivot bolts next to the gearbox to release the shaft. However, they have the advantage of being able to use a free wheel lift.
Now I am trying to separate the inner joint from the shaft. Am I right in assuming that the only way to get the can out of the cast inner joint cover is to tap around the tin lip until either the lip disappears or the can pops out, whichever is the sooner ?

As a matter of interest, do you know how much surface abrasion\scoring is acceptable on the section of the shaft that runs in the transmission oil seal, before a new shaft is desirable bearing in mind that a recon shaft is not that expensive ?
However, I know for a fact that this recon shaft is only two years old and has covered about 1000 miles, so there should be plenty of life left in it yet but it is showing slight pitting in a small patch at the gearbox end.

All the best,

Kristian.
 

Offline Burnerman

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2006, 08:35:59 PM »
Hi Kristian - yes, you have to release the crimp that contains the inner joint - very careful prising with a screwdriver and pliers will eventually work fine, and the joint can be released reasonably easily.  It can be re peened over again when the work is done.  Regarding the wear lip on the driveshaft end, the oil seal can accommodate a slight wear lip but obviously if its too deep then an oil leak will result - however if it was dry before there is no reason why it shouldn't be ok afterwards - but its best to pop a new seal in anyway.  Hope this helps a bit! Cheers John

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Offline KEB1

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2006, 03:42:34 PM »
Hi John,

Thanks again for your help and advise. When I get it back together again and it passes the MOT, you will be the first to know.

All the best,

Kristian.
 

Offline Burnerman

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2006, 06:28:25 PM »
Fingers crossed for the MOT - hugely underrated cars these.  Cheers John

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Offline KEB1

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2006, 05:45:25 PM »
Hi All,

Further to the saga of my ZX driveshaft, despite the excellent advice given here and descpription in the DIY manual, I remain a little puzzled. This is because both driveshafts on my car feature a rather solid and well engineered cast metal pot for the triax joint rather than a tin can.
Luckily, today I had the opportunity to examine a recon ZX shaft which had a "tin can" joint instead of the cast metal type.
I also dug out an old AX manual and did a bit of cross referencing.
The 1360 supplement shows the tin can joint being dismantled frame by frame. It is a pity the ZX manual does not.
The question is, does anyone know if the cast joint pot can be fitted with a new gaiter as a diy job ?
The splined end seems to be mechanicaly pressed on and there is no way a hammer and screwdriver can open that up !
I have cut off the old gaiter to enable me to have a better look inside and this has allowed me to manoeuvre the shaft out of the pot.
All I have left to remove at the moment is a segemented ring that was once part of the gaiter and the best way to release that would be to collapse it.
I wonder if the correct gaiter kit is available for this type of shaft ? If anyone is interested, I have a couple of photos of the pot I could send.

All the best,

Kristian.
 
 

Offline KEB1

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2006, 07:21:10 PM »
Hi All,

My car now has the tin can style shaft that everyone talks about as being easy to repair and gaiter kits are readily available for.
The cost differential between gaiter kits and a recon shaft was not that great.

Thanks to all who helped on this topic.

All the best,

Kristian.
 

Offline KEB1

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Cit ZX 1.4i nearside outer boot part 2
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2006, 12:20:36 PM »
Hello All,

Is it possible to remove the nearside drivshaft to renew the outer CV boot with the car jacked up in the driveway ?
I have removed the swivel pinch bolt but the wishbone won't drop low enough to release the swivel pin from the strut, but it does allow access to all of the three torx bolts holding the swivel to the wishbone.
If these are removed, is it then possible to pull the strut outwards enough to get the CV joint clear of the hub ?

All the best,

Kristian.[:)]