Messages

1

Citroen Car Parts Forum / Re: Xantia

« on: June 12, 2010, 12:37:54 PM »

Congratulations Doc a labour completed at last, with the improved ride maybe your ear will not be bent with plees of another XM.
What did you have to do to get the rear breaks working?

2

Citroen Car Parts Forum / Re: Xantia hydraulic pipe

« on: May 08, 2010, 11:00:49 PM »

This is the port I was trying to get into, you can see the ends of 3/16 bar about 3" long that was preventing me getting enough forward pressure and turn at the same time to get the thread started. You can see one end of the bar which I managed to shove up, this goes back along the subframe about 4" turns around a bolt adjacent to the security valve and comes back to just above the port. I think both ends were tipped with rubber I am at a loss to understand what it is ment to do, anyone know?
I solved the problem by getting a one and a half inch quarter copper pipe (the length of the straight part of the pipe I was fitting) slitting it down the middle to go over the pipe then made 3 further 1/4" slots in the end to fold over the nut flats and bingo on it went.

3

Citroen Car Parts Forum / Re: Xantia hydraulic pipe

« on: April 25, 2010, 06:31:54 PM »

thanks for the input Doc your pictures are brilliant, 2nd one down shows the port I am trying to get into at the very top. On mine there is a 1/8" bar about 8" long  which starts off just above the port goes back wraps around a bolt adjacent to the connector on the security valve then comes back to the just above the port and ends toped off with a piece of rubber what on earth that is for just beats me. Hope you can enlighten meas to it's purpose also how is the security valve fixed to the sub frame.
I have posted pictures on your AOL email, how do I get pictures on the forum and what is the best resolution to use, is there a limit on file size.
Grandbaby sitting day tomorow hope to get back underneath on Tues.
Thanks again Tom

4

Citroen Car Parts Forum / Re: The Xantia saga continues...

« on: April 22, 2010, 10:16:18 AM »

hi Doc
the top picture with the pipe in the gloved hand looks like the one I replaced last year (£90) from the rack to the pump. while working on my latest pipe leak I have come to realize that I think there should be a rubber seal on that pipe and assume that I must have left it in the fitting when I took the opld pipe out, lucky for me it must have still been in good nick.
tom

5

Citroen Car Parts Forum / Xantia hydraulic pipe

« on: April 21, 2010, 06:42:12 PM »

Xantia exclusive w reg 2000
hydraulic pipe from pressure regulator to security valve just behind left wheel arch. I managed to remove old pipe by snapping pipe and getting a socket over the nut however I am so far unable to get my fingers on the nut to start it off.
What is the minimum I have to remove to get at it. This looks like an impossible task to me, any help greatly appreciated.
Due to the difficulty I would advise any one to grease these pipes the one I have just mentioned and the one from the pump to the steering rack (I changed this last year) both sprung leaks through corrosion in the same place the two pipes follow each oth across the wheel arch and the leak occured just as the dropped down.
Tom Collon

6

French Cars / Clio will not start

« on: June 16, 2008, 11:11:38 PM »

Clio 1998 s reg 1.4 e7j engine.
After becomming a bit dispondent have let it lie a couple months, I really must get a second wind.

Rather than just say "will not start" it actually fires up every time you turn the key and dies when key is relesed and will imediatly repeat the sequence.

with doc browns excellent help the following work has been done.

Ignition switch jumpered, still the same.
all injectors placed in jars while cranking and a good spray was observed
all plugs removed and all lit up like xmas tree lights when cranked.
icv removed and operation checked ok
all sensors and earths read good from ecu plug
imobilizor light goes out when key inserted.

In desperation I spoke to a mobile diagnostic mechy and he said as I do not have any fauly lights up he would not be able to see anything (does this sound right).
I am now thinking of the ECU it's self (hopefully someone will contradict me) can anyone suggest a good place to send mine for test/repair.

Thanks for all the past help and suggestions
Tom Collon

7

French Cars / Xantia ABS

« on: January 08, 2008, 08:26:56 PM »

Xantia HDI 2000 (yes I am blessed with 2 French no goers)

After checking all sensors read ok at about 1000 ohms from the ECU plug, is there a way of resetting to get the warnig light off without taking it out on the road. To my way of thinking as the sensors are ok if the wheels are not turning then there is no reason for an alarm unless it is the ECU.

Tom Collon

8

French Cars / Clio will not start

« on: January 05, 2008, 11:26:11 AM »

1998 s reg 1.4 clio
Initially over the last month intermottent starting turning over fine but not fireing up, much better when cold. Changed fuel filter and cleaned TDC sensor and connector, no improvement. Two weeks ago it refused to start at anytime. New TDC sensor and the connector fitted it fires up every time but fades after a second. All dashboard indications look normal


Just a word about the price of Renault spares, the sensor at £25 is just about ok it has a bit of engineering the bracket, coil, pole piece and integral male connector but the female connector and two skinny bits of wire at £23 must be the biggest rip off ever.

Regards tom collon

9

French Cars / clio fast idle

« on: June 17, 2006, 07:13:34 AM »

1998 Renault Clio 1.4RT
Had the car for over a year running well when all of a sudden idle speed has increased to 1500 and hunts up to 1800. Throttle housing looks good and inlet temp. probe measures ok

10

French Cars / Clio will not start

« on: January 30, 2008, 09:42:47 PM »

Found out from google that 2 coil ICVs are not movable by hand, connected it up to harness turned ignition on and it buzzed nicely and moved about 1/8" looks good. Will reassemble and carry out more checks

11

French Cars / Clio will not start

« on: January 29, 2008, 10:20:01 PM »

Throttle housing removed ok, 4 torx 30 bolts, Should I be able to move the ICV by hand?, Inlet air temp, ICV stepper motor  and trottle position sensor all ok. As soon as the ICV querie is settled I will carry on with the good Docs check list.

12

French Cars / Clio will not start

« on: January 29, 2008, 09:24:37 PM »

Throttle housing removed ok, 4 torx 30 bolts, Should I be able to move the ICV by hand?, Inlet air temp, ICV stepper motor  and trottle position sensor all ok. As soon as the ICV querie is settled I will carry on with the good Docs check list.

13

French Cars / Xantia ABS

« on: January 21, 2008, 12:38:59 AM »

thank you guys very much for all the help. With the aid of 2i16V's drawings and the tip from DocBrown about freezing (I applied it to the sensor after heating up the metal with a heat gun) the sensor came out and there was the fault looking straight at me. The magnetic core had been bent tight over, all my fault in being to much of a hurry to get a retest I did not take enough care when aralditing the ring in place. Although it cleaned up fine and I straightened the pole, the movement must have snapped a winding and it is now open circut. not to downhearted as I have enjoyed getting up close to the problem and the company of total strangers.

Summing up: Big help was the ABS socket pin out and the tip about reading the output on a/c volts (maplin do a meter that has a 20v range at £20) Super photos 2i16v all your own work?

I am reluctant to change out good drive shafts (only 60,000)for the sake of those rings at £200 a go but first i need a sensor. I still can not find the RP number, I rang the local citroen agent and he said painted in white on the strut nope, I have looked on the a pillar and all under the bonnetmaybe as it was one of the last (June 2000) they knew there would be no more changes and did not bother putting it on or any more clues?

2i16V, With your ABS fault you could jack up the the front with the weels of as I have done and read for an out put with the a/c meter and for the back ones get some longer leads feed them thrrough so a passenger could chek while you drive along.

Until the warmer weather I am trying something else, the Haynes manual leads you well astray for instument panel removal, I have just got it out (23:00 hrs) without removing airbag or steering wheel.

14

French Cars / xantia anti roll bar bush??

« on: January 16, 2008, 10:04:57 AM »

Hello Again
just a small addition, the part you require is called the "drop link".
A rod of about 12" long with a ball joint at both ends one to the anti-roll bar and the other to the suspension strut.

15

French Cars / xantia anti roll bar bush??

« on: January 16, 2008, 01:16:52 AM »

At last a chance to offer some experience after all the ezcellent help I am presently getting.
I am 68 and actually did this job 3 months ago as far as I remember (old timers diesese) it was straight forward just followed the instuctions in the Haynes manual with a few diversions. It says use a 5mm allen key in the bolt if you can get it in it might be to corroded, in my case I got it in, the nut moved well at first then seized on the bolt in both cases. I then used a recipricating saw to go through the bolt on reflection if you hack away the rubber from the ball you might be able to get Mole grips in to give you something more solid than an allen key to work against. Forget about the recomended use of a ball joint seperator as you will not be putting the old one back and secondly one of your joints is loose anyway. You have nowt to loose because if you get stuck half way it is still driveable as I did because they supplied the wrong side at first get them to double check they order the nearside.